Northern Home Counties MAFVA

Miniature Armoured Fighting Vehicle Association Scale Models

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Links to useful modelling tools

Posted by Phillip Smith on August 9, 2016 at 3:30 PM Comments comments (0)

Hi everyone,

 

Quite a few of you expressed an interest to some stuff out of my toolbox

 

Here are some references you might find useful.

 

 

Punch & Die sets

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php?cPath=21_145&osCsid=nscbk8icuonh4ml905rfm16l81

 

Precision Sprue FLAT Cutter

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_28&products_id=3749

 

 

20 x Micro HSS 0.2mm Straight shank Twist Drill Bits (Other sizes are available!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P3CAB36

 

 

Pin vice sliding wire holder

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00RG86ZZS

 

 

Micro pin vice with fixed collet from 0 mm to 0.70 mm

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00X2JHXZ6

 

 

Swann Morton Fine Blades (chisel-like) and Handles Range

http://www.scalpelsandblades.co.uk/range_16_swann-morton-fine-blades-and-handles.php

 

 

Bonsai Tree Tungsten Shears / Scissors

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bonsai-Tungsten-Shears-Scissors/dp/B007ACMUTA

 

 

 

 

The ???Camouflage Chalk??? Method

Posted by Phillip Smith on August 9, 2016 at 3:15 PM Comments comments (0)


Struggling to master the intricacies of complex camouflage schemes, not really the master of the airbrush? I’m the same. I can spray a wide 3 colour scheme but it is a chore rather than a pleasure. I have been desperately searching for an easier answer to the problem.

Perhaps you might like to consider this method, quick, no fumes, no masking, no cleanup afterwards, robust, using life expired brushes and cheap. I’ve always used pastel chalks for exhaust staining and some shadowing and wondered if it would produce a good result on WWII German vehicles. Hopefully from the photographs you might agree that the answer is yes.

METHOD

Onto a matt painted surface (I do not think gloss paint will give enough grip for permanence) which has already received a dark oil wash to emphasise the shadows and a highlight dry brush with oils, apply the pastel chalk camouflage.

My paint brushes go through several uses from fine painting, then dry brushing and finally chalk applicators. When the brush is to be used for the latter then cut the bristles down to about 1/8th of an inch. I use Derwent pastel chalks from a boxed set I bought years ago, mainly the grey, green and brown and they seem to last for ever. Use an emery board or sandpaper to grind the stick to produce a small pile of powder.

With the Italeri 1/35 Opel Blitz refueller, I just took the plunge and started the brown which is basically ‘S’ shaped and was pleasantly surprised with the result as a first attempt. It was an easy step with another cut down brush to apply the green. I tried to rub off some of the chalk but couldn’t so as it seems quite robust, I carefully applied a subtle dark wash in a few places and the chalk took it quite happily. Emboldened I applied some subtle oil highlights and it took that as well. Stretching my luck I applied the waterslide decal unit badge to both doors and the chalk stood up to that as well.

To test the resilience of the chalk I applied some to an old tank turret to see what would be required to remove it. Thinners only removed a tiny bit even with vigorous use of a brush. I then used fine wire wool which took off the chalk and left the original paint relatively unmarked.

On the Zvezda Mercedes L4500 I used the same method; see the photos for the blank rear of the cab, then the brown and finally the green. I even applied the waterslide data loading decal to the drivers’ door. First I brushed on a coat of acrylic gloss varnish, applied the decal and then brushed on a coat of Humbrol matt varnish. Even after that abuse the chalk has only darkened ever so slightly, only noticeable under natural light and not enough to require varnishing the complete vehicle.

For the future I will have to try wider colour bands and perhaps some mottling as well. The ease of use and potential will see me using this method quite often on the models I’ve yet to finish. At a recent club meeting I was pleasantly surprised by the very enthusiastic response my efforts received and many members were prepared to give it a go.

If you decide to try this method then the best of luck and please share your results.

 

 

Deathbuild 2013

Posted by Phillip Smith on July 17, 2013 at 6:00 PM Comments comments (0)

What do Mafva members do on the hottest dat of the year so far?  Stay indoors and model of course.  A great day was had by all who attended, Bar-B-Q was, a really nice social event.  Roll on 2014.

 

Deathbuild 2011

Posted by Phillip Smith on July 21, 2011 at 4:06 AM Comments comments (2)

On Sunday 17th July 2011 the branch had its first Deathbuild, which in laymans terms was just a lot of the members meeting at our HQ and eating, drinking, chatting and oh yes making some models.  A really good opportunity to exchange ideas as we built.  A great day was had by all although the barbque was a bit damp due to inclement weather.  Photos below

Hopefully this will become an annual event

Welcome

Posted by Phillip Smith on October 16, 2010 at 5:47 PM Comments comments (0)

Welcome to the new Northern Home Counties MAFVA site.  Your comments and input would be much appreciated.


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